Savor the Flavors of Fall at Walloon Lake Inn

Enjoy fine dining (and fine wine) with a view

By Geri Dietze | Sept. 28, 2024

Starting in 1981, when it was given its current name, the Walloon Lake Inn enjoyed a long run as a highly regarded, upscale but unpretentious dining destination. In 2014, the Inn changed hands and underwent a total renovation, as part of the overall renaissance of Walloon Lake Village.

But first, let’s go back in time.

Constructed in 1891, Fern Cottage, as it was known at the time, was a cozy inn at the foot of the lake, and the departure point for the steamboats which were busy transporting summer visitors (perhaps including the Hemingways with young Ernest in tow) who were escaping the heat of Midwestern cities to family cottages and resort hotels. Those staying at Fern Cottage paid $2 per day for a room plus access to the dining room and indoor bathrooms.

The structure operated throughout the decades with name changes, additions, and improvements, but it remained a treasured landmark. Today the tiny Village of Walloon, south of Petoskey, is a vibrant destination with interesting shops, lodging, and a lively waterfront eatery in addition to the Inn. New businesses, like Sweetwater Floral and the upscale Walloon Watershed bar, have joined the ranks within the last two years.

Style and Substance

Fast-forward to today’s incarnation of the Walloon Lake Inn, and Grand Rapids designer Kathryn Chaplow—look for her influences throughout the Village—has fashioned a space rich with “moody colors and finishes” perfect for all seasons.

The bar, “appropriate for a true speakeasy… from the 1920s,” is finished in cerused oak and seats six on red leather and brass stools. Additional seating is upholstered in antique leather to impart a vintage vibe. The walls are covered with faux eel skin in cerulean blue, outlined in hand-applied nailhead trim.

A stunning—and capacious—wine wall separates the area from the dining room and keeps around 90 vintages under perfect conditions. Dining room walls are a deep walnut, complemented by a stamped tin ceiling in a black patina and charcoal carpeting underfoot. A curated collection of vintage silver platters and servers are installed within the space, and brass sconces and wall fixtures and deco-inspired flush mount ceiling fixtures cast soft light throughout.

Upstairs, the Varnish Room offers private dining in a gleaming mahogany space honoring the historic wooden hull boats common to Walloon. The handiwork of skilled woodworkers and boat finishers and the on-site builder, this area gleams like the boats that inspired it and feels like the grand salon of a vintage Great Lakes yacht. “It was a real labor of love,” explains Chaplow.

An Elegant Repast

The Inn sources ingredients and supplies from a collection of established purveyors, including fresh produce from Bear Creek Organics in Petoskey and John Cross Fisheries in Charlevoix, plus specialty items, fresh meats, poultry, and seafood from Carmela Foods and Fortune Foods, both nationally known suppliers to fine eateries.

Executive chef Michael DeMarco combines the flavors of his East Coast roots with his Florida culinary degree and translates that experience through the fresh ingredients of northern Michigan into a well-rounded menu of complex flavors.

General manager and certified sommelier Melissa Ogden explains that the new menu will begin on November 1, including a three-course offering for $60, but the current menu is a good example of the experience diners can enjoy now and well into color season.

Truffle Fries are the favorite house appetizer, with parmesan and Romano, organic herbs, and truffle aioli. But patrons can also choose from Crab and Truffle Gnocchi with vermouth cream sauce or Seared Beef Tips with mushroom truffle cream sauce and garlic asiago toast. Or try the Confit Chicken Wings, Calamari with pork belly and peanuts, and, in season, Oysters on the Half Shell with Tobiko caviar.

Among the fresh salads, the top seller is the Cauli-Brussels salad, with warm naan bread, hummus, baby arugula, roasted curry-spiced cauliflower and brussels sprouts, feta and tzatziki. The Apple Salad combines honeycrisp apples with cheddar and Swiss on microgreens. We also like the sound of the Heirloom Burrata with beefsteak and cherry tomatoes, fried burrata cheese, figs, prosciutto, pickled red onion, and microgreens with pesto, a white balsamic vinaigrette, and balsamic reduction.

And, it should come as no surprise that the favorite entree is the northern Michigan delicacy, John Cross Whitefish, in parmesan panko crust, with an array of roast vegetables, lemon beurre blanc, and capers. There is also Grilled Salmon, with parmesan risotto, sauteed peppers, sweet corn and grapefruit beurre blanc.

Seafood is a speciality of the Inn, like the Seafood Risotto, with scallops, shrimp, and vegetable risotto in herb butter wine sauce. The Butter Poached Lobster Tail is a welcome traditional offering. Meanwhile, beef lovers can choose from a fine filet, New York strip, or braised short rib. Sun-dried Tomato Falafel with wilted spinach, pearl couscous risotto, and tzatziki sauce is a delicious meatless option.

Finishing Touches

You’ll be staying for dessert, of course, and perhaps another glass of wine. Choose from a selection of perfect endings: Crème Brulee, Fresh Berry Sorbet, Turtle Cheesecake, and Carrot Cake.

Fine wines, at a variety of price points, enhance every meal. Popular pairings include a crisp Chablis with seasonal oysters.

“The minerality of the Chablis is perfect with the salty grit of Oysters,” explains sommelier Ogden. She adds, “Albarino with its acidity, citrus notes and salinity [is] a natural pair with scallops [in] the Seafood Risotto.”

Other house favorites include Frank Family Cabernet, Cakebread Chardonnay, (both Napa Valley) and several of the Bordeaux. Ogden tells us the Inn’s “guests love the variety.”

All of the above makes Walloon Lake Inn a must-stop on your fall color tour. The Inn is a busy place; private parties, events, weddings, and more happen throughout the year, so do call ahead for reservations.

Find Walloon Lake Inn at 4178 West Street in Walloon Lake. (231)-535-2999; walloonlakeinn.com