Going Coastal at Pacificoast

At this new Traverse City restaurant, life's a beach

By Geri Dietze | July 20, 2024

“Coastal” is a food trend and a design trend, but the coast can be anywhere, including right here in northern Michigan, where we enjoy some pretty awesome freshwater coasts.

In a restaurant town such as Traverse City, it’s hard to imagine a theme that hasn’t been done. But Pacificoast is something new, and as the name suggests, the coastal vibe is everywhere. Their job is food, but it might also be beach…and we think Ken (and Barbie) would fit right in. 

From Prohibition to Beach Groove

Pacificoast occupies the space previously known as 123 Speakeasy, a popular reservation-only nightspot with a Prohibition theme. Sadly, that business model could not sustain itself under COVID restrictions, and it was forced to close.

Pacificoast has completely revamped the space, opening it up to light and color, though the restaurant took a year beyond its projected opening to get up and running. Owner Garrett Jenkins attributes the delay to “bumps in the road,” and “construction hiccups.”

Still, Pacificoast started getting foot traffic right away. “There’s a stark difference [to Speakeasy 123],” explains manager Alexandra Coon. “People’s faces light up,” when they see the “bright and breezy” interior. “Our goal was to bring a West Coast vibe to the Third Coast.”

Jenkins is a downstater, but grew up as a seasonal resident of Traverse City, and he wanted his contribution to the existing food scene to be the right fit. “There are so many great places to go [here],” he says. “We wanted to bring a different aesthetic.” 

The room is bright and open, with white shiplap, exposed trusses and ductwork, and a variety of seating, with room for almost 150. Choose from high tops with bistro chairs in natural wood or turquoise metal, plus banquet seating and tables along one wall and plenty of bar space, including an up-close-and-personal pizza bar fronting the massive wood-fired pizza oven. 

When you’re done watching your pizza, catch sports on the numerous flat screens visible from every seat. An expanse of white wall, complete with a bucket of markers, invites graffiti. (This is the bar version of a trust exercise.) 

Tacos, Seafood, and Pizza

Once you’ve added your art, it’s time to eat.

Favorites on the starter menu include the Crispy Baja Tacos, with cod, chipotle crema, cabbage, and pickled onion, and the Firecracker Shrimp with Boom Boom sauce. But the Burrata cheese with fig jam, pesto, balsamic, and toasted sourdough sounds pretty inviting, as do the Tuna Poke Nachos with wonton chips, jalapeños, avocado, black sesame, and sriracha aioli.

For the meal, try the Buttered Crawfish Roll or traditional Fish & Chips for a seaside twist or keep it classic with the Smash Burger with American cheese, caramelized onions, and Cali sauce. Either way, order the Garlic Parm Fries, because garlic and parmesan should go on everything.

For more seafood-inspired bites, opt for the Lemon Pepper Rigatoni, featuring shrimp or mushrooms, or the Ginger Miso Cod, with wild rice and quinoa with arugula salad.

And then there’s pizza, prepared in the open kitchen with Ferment 72, a locally made Neapolitan dough from Michael P’s Specialty Foods of Elk Rapids. (Chef and restaurateur Michael Peterson is a name you might know from Spencer Creek Landing, Lulu’s Bistro, Siren Hall, and American House Wood Fired Pizza.)

The dough is slow fermented, making a flavorful chewy-but-tender low-gluten crust. “It’s a very cool product,” Jenkins states, “and we’re excited to work with [the company.]”

Stick with the tried-and-true cheese or go for something unexpected: The Dirty Honey, with cup pepperoni, hot honey, ricotta, and mozzarella; Bacon Wrapped Fig, with goat cheese and mozzarella; or the Elote with roasted corn, feta, cilantro, smoked paprika, parmesan, crema, and lime. There are more, but we’ll let you be surprised.

The Bar (and Brunch!)

From the bar, expect an ample selection of small-batch spirits, quality wines, and popular brews, plus the cocktail creativity one has come to expect. We love the sound of the Patio Pounder, with sweet tea, lemonade, and Deep Eddy Lemon Vodka. The TC Mule is made with Tito’s and flavored with lime, apple, cranberry, and ginger beer.

On Saturdays, indulge in Ros​​é Saturdays from 3-6pm, where you’ll get $2 off all pretty pink wines. Choose a curated rosé from the rolling cart, or sit in comfort in the cozy Rosé Bar with space for nine and a garage door opening to the outside. 

There is also a fabulous “Hangover Brunch” with Bottomless Mimosas and a Bloody Mary that skips the celery, pickled stuff, and cold bacon, and instead gives you what you really want and need: a slice of pizza. (Cue the copycats.)

Look for brunch staples such as Lemon Ricotta Pancakes and fancy Avocado Toast, but also try one of the sandwiches or breakfast pizzas, including the Bacon Egg & Cheese, and MC’s Meat Montage, with egg, bacon, sausage, and bechamel.

A Pacificoast for Every Season

Despite the beachy vibes, Pacificoast is far more than a trendy summer spot. 

“We plan to transform the space for each season,” Jenkins says. The holiday season, for example, will “look like Christmas threw up in here.” (Sounds gross, but in a good way.)

In the meantime, there’s a lot going on at Pacificoast, so visit their website and Facebook for up-to-date info on specials and fun things to do, like music, bingo, and trivia. Special deals are offered on cooler six-packs for all major sporting events; there’s a Weekday Martini Hour Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays from 5-7pm; and “Late Night Za” offers 20 percent off your pizza on Saturdays from 10pm-midnight. (Free pizzas sometimes appear, but you’ve got to be there!)

“We created this for everybody,” Jenkins explains, “and the customer always comes first,” so expect staff to be open to suggestions, menu requests, and maybe even some assorted beachy hopes and dreams.

Find Pacificoast at 123 W Front St. Ste 1B in Traverse City. (231) 486-6078; pacificoast.com