A Fresh Take on Tradition

La Catrina Mexican Nishinaab blends two cuisines and two cultures

By Rachel Pasche | April 27, 2024

Fusion restaurants are not a new concept; the joining of cultures in unique food creations is a practice that’s been around (and popular) for a while. What is less common, however, is finding a restaurant that creates surprising and distinctive menu items from two cultures that are not traditionally combined.

That’s exactly what La Catrina Mexican Nishinaab of Manistee is doing with their Anishinaabe and Mexican fusion menu. Northern Express spoke with owner Austin Vela about how the idea for this space got started, the menu, and what it’s been like to be a first-time restaurant owner.

A Soft Opening

The idea to combine Mexican and Anishinaabe cultures in the menu was inspired by Vela’s son.

“He shares both Mexican and Anishinaabe cultures, and we wanted to create something that represented both cultures,” Vela says. Vela’s fiancée has Native American heritage, while Vela has Mexican heritage. The dishes that Vela and his fiancée would cook at home laid the foundation for the menu.

La Catrina opened its doors in October of 2023 after months of preparation and hard work. The restaurant is located on River Street in Manistee, just off the Manistee Riverwalk trail. There’s a patio in the back that overlooks the river, perfect for enjoying a lunch or dinner outside in the warmer months.

The post-tourism season opening wasn’t ideal as far as business goes, but Vela says it was good for letting the staff get acclimated to the swing of things.

“It’s been quite slow, due to us opening during the fall season,” Vela says, experiencing the lull in customers that many business owners struggle with during the off-season across small towns in Michigan. “The pace of business and customers over the winter is making us contemplate closing for a few months next winter.”

There were, however, some bright spots amidst this initial slow season, most notably the Sleighbell Parade and Old Christmas Weekend that takes place in downtown Manistee in December each year.

“We were extremely busy during that weekend,” Vela tells us. “It was our first time experiencing a true rush of customers, and we were really pleased that everyone that came in was satisfied with the service and the food.” The positive reviews and the capability of the staff during the Old Christmas Weekend felt like a bolstering trial run for the hectic summer months.

A Family-First Menu

Whether you stop in to sample the fry bread appetizer or come looking for a flaming burrito (yes, a burrito they set on fire!), La Catrina is a great place to try something new.

What has customers raving? Vela points to dishes like the Rez-Wich, a fried spam sandwich on fry bread (a fried flat dough bread) and the Three Sisters dip, a pico de gallo-style salsa created with the three sisters crops of corn, squash, and beans. Also popular are the birria tacos made with shredded three-beef stew, the loaded Indian taco served on fry bread, and the bison burger.

Dishes the restaurant features come from family tradition, culture, and the food that Vela and his fiancée grew up eating. Some of the recipes remain the same tried-and-true classics that have withstood the test of time, while others have been given a more modern twist, Vela says. He believes La Catrina is the first of its kind, a tribute to two cultures that are prevalent in the state of Michigan but not always represented.

The recipes for the Native American dishes come from Vela’s fiancée and her family. “These recipes have been passed down for generations, and you don’t often find these foods in restaurants,” Vela says.

On the other side of the menu, much of the traditional Mexican fare is based on what Vela learned to make from his mother (hence the “Authentic Tacos” section). There’s also Burrito Mole, Pollo Toluca (chicken breast with chorizo and cheese, served with rice and beans on the side), and Arroz con Pollo.

In addition to food, customers can order local and imported beers and ciders, as well as margaritas.

Find La Catrina Mexican Nishinaab at 350 River St. in Manistee. (231) 887-4376