Casino Cuisine

Sept. 19, 2007

Northern Michigan has 10 casinos (if you count the five that are part of the Kewadin Casino group north of the bridge), and of course the focus is on the gaming aspect of their respective operations. Rightfully so; after all, the slot machines and gaming tables are the “bread and butter” of any casino operation. But these casinos also offer entertainment and fine dining.
As Northern Michigan grows, its fine dining reputation does as well. But area casinos are often left out of the equation at several events that feature chefs. This is a mistake. My work in covering the area entertainment scene has taken me to each of these casinos and certainly the first class entertainment offerings are impressive - but so is the cuisine.
Here is an overview of some of the culinary offerings at Northern Michigan casinos. In the coming weeks we will take a look a specific entrées in our Tastemakers column.

Kewadin Casino: Horseshoe Bay Restaurant (St. Ignace):
The Horseshoe Bay Restaurant overlooks Lake Huron, making it probably the most scenic casino dining location. This full service restaurant has fine dining offerings in a relaxed setting with casual dining prices. If you are an early riser, the breakfast menu is diverse; and just check out that omelet station. On the weekends, try the Friday night fish fry, and on Saturday, the seafood buffet. As for entrees, The Horseshoe has probably the best lasagna of any casino. I was impressed with their Lobster Ravioli; fresh lobster meat is stuffed in jumbo ravioli and prepared in a tangy pomodoro sauce, topped off with both ricotta and pecorino cheeses. Another palate pleaser is their Field & Stream combo that includes pan-roasted rainbow trout, grilled sirloin steak and grilled shrimp with a tossed salad and side dishes for only $11.95.

The Soaring Eagle Casino and Resort: Water Lily Restaurant (Mt. Pleasant):
I attend a handful of concerts and a few conferences every year at Soaring Eagle, and I’m impressed at every visit. The service at all ends of the operation is impeccable. Conference food is often boring and usually doesn’t taste the greatest; this is not the case at Soaring Eagle. Equally impressive are their dining offerings. They have several options including two fine dining restaurants - the Siniikaung Steak and Chop House and the Water Lily. My favorite is the Water Lily and its regional American cuisine; the appetizer menu is exquisite, with the highlights being the Scotch Quail Eggs and the Beef & Bison Sate.
I always enjoy a good bowl of soup (usually in lieu of salad) before my dinner, and the house soup at the Water Lily is a must. It is a Charred Asparagus & Ramp Bisque that is a blend of wild onions and Michigan asparagus. Often, it is so hard to get excited about chicken dishes, but Executive Chef Christopher Nadobny piqued my interest with his Cedar-Riesling Roasted Chicken Breast, which is served with roasted Champagne grapes. Another favorite of mine is their Birch Roasted Sea Bass topped with the Jalapeno Pepper Beurre Blanc. The wine list is impressive, but is lacking in one area, namely wines from Michigan. If I have one criticism that would
be it; I was disappointed when my server told me that the food and beverage director “doesn’t like Michigan wine.”

Little River Casino & Resort: The Willows (Manistee):
The Little River Casino recently expanded their operation, and now have a wonderful new conference and concert venue. I recently attended the Kenny Rogers show (which served as the concert premiere for their new facility) and was treated to some backstage food. Now, as a former concert caterer, I always like to see what various venues do for their visiting celebrities. After enjoying a great dinner (the salmon was fantastic) with Rogers and his band, I wondered if this same quality was offered in the casino’s restaurant, The Willows. The answer is yes.
On the weekends, they offer an all-you-can-eat Prime Rib & Seafood Buffet with a variety of soups, salads, vegetables and potatoes, fried and baked fish, fried and broiled shrimp, ribs, lasagna, stir fry, pork loin, baked chicken, an assortment of desserts, and of course prime rib and crab legs. Little River is new to the major concert scene with their venue that holds 1,700, and they have several shows on tap for this fall including Jo Dee Messina, Clint Black, and The Guess Who; all great reasons to visit and dine at The Willows.

Turtle Creek Casino: Misheekeh (Williamsburg):
The casinos of Traverse City are part of the Grand Traverse Resort operation, and certainly the new Aerie restaurant at the top of the Resort itself is worth checking out; it actually probably overshadows the culinary offerings at the two casino locations. But since it opened nearly 10 years ago, the Misheekeh restaurant at the Turtle Creek Casino has also been serving first class offerings. I feel that their specialty is fish, and they offer a daily all-you-can-eat fish fry, too. They have several other good choices, so be sure to check out the perch, whitefish and catfish.

Leelanau Sands Casino: The Double Eagle Restaurant (Peshawbestown):
The Leelanau Peninsula is one of the most scenic areas of Michigan, and after a day of touring the wineries or hanging at the Sleeping Bear Sand Dunes or in Fishtown, a visit to Leelanau Sands Casino is order. The Double Eagle Restaurant has a diverse menu, but its specialty is burgers. Try the Half Pound Buffalo Burger with the all you can eat soup and salad bar. Sunday Brunch is another specialty; every Sunday from 10 am to 2 pm, The Double Eagle offers their brunch, including an assortment of entrees, an eggs-to-order station, and Belgian waffles - and the price is right at $11.95 for adults, and $5.95 for kids 10 and under (3 and under are free.)

Odawa Casino Resort: Sage Restaurant (Petoskey):
Formerly Victories Casino, the Little Traverse Band not only undertook a major move and renovation of their casino operation, but they also renamed it Odawa. The new Ovation Hall has a stellar line up, with headliners including The Commodores in October and The Brian Setzer Orchestra Christmas Show in December. The Ozone nightclub/disco has been turning heads with their “Party Pods” that seat eight and are equipped with a private plasma screen. They have several dining options as well, including their buffet area and the Sage Restaurant with its 16-foot-tall wine tower that is loaded with high quality wines, including several from Northern Michigan.
Sage has been putting their focus on wine lately, and they offer a weekly wine tasting on Wednesdays from 3 to 5 pm; each month they offer a 10-course gourmet wine dinner as well. As for the menu, it is definitely diverse; for an appetizer, try the Escargot Vol-au-Vent with caramelized onions, mushrooms and Madeira cream. On the entrée menu, check out the Salmon Saltimbocca and the Curried Grilled Lamb Loin.