December 27, 2024

Dig In! Your Fall 2024 Restaurant Guide

Six spots to soak up locals’ summer
By Northern Express Staff & Contributors | Sept. 14, 2024

Autumn officially arrives this week, which means we are in peak Locals’ Summer season. The crowds have thinned, open tables are easier to come by, and we’re still benefiting from the bounty of the summer harvest.

So what’s a local to do? Dine out, of course! These six eateries hit all the marks for great food, from California-inspired pizzas to authentic Mexican fare, Low Country shrimp boils to Hot Cheeto Burritos, Wagyu beef to piled-high sandwiches. So while the summer weather lasts, get out and eat up!

Pacificoast

Traverse City

In a restaurant town such as Traverse City, it’s hard to imagine a theme that hasn’t been done. But Pacificoast is something new, and as the name suggests, the coastal vibe is everywhere. Their job is food, but it might also be beach…and we think Ken (and Barbie) would fit right in.

Pacificoast (pictured) occupies the space previously known as 123 Speakeasy, a popular reservation-only nightspot with a Prohibition theme. Sadly, that business model could not sustain itself under COVID restrictions, and it was forced to close.

The new room is bright and open, with white shiplap, exposed trusses and ductwork, and a variety of seating, with room for almost 150. Choose from high tops with bistro chairs in natural wood or turquoise metal, plus banquette seating and tables along one wall and plenty of bar space, including an up-close-and-personal pizza bar fronting the massive wood-fired pizza oven.

On the Menu
Favorites on the starter menu include the Crispy Baja Tacos, with cod, chipotle crema, cabbage, and pickled onion, and the Firecracker Shrimp with Boom Boom sauce. For the meal, try the Buttered Crawfish Roll or traditional Fish & Chips for a seaside twist or keep it classic with the Smash Burger with American cheese, caramelized onions, and Cali sauce.

And then there’s pizza, prepared in the open kitchen with Ferment 72, a locally made Neapolitan dough from Michael P’s Specialty Foods of Elk Rapids. (Chef and restaurateur Michael Peterson is a name you might know from Spencer Creek Landing, Lulu’s Bistro, Siren Hall, and American House Wood Fired Pizza.)

Stick with the tried-and-true cheese or go for something unexpected: The Dirty Honey, with cup pepperoni, hot honey, ricotta, and mozzarella; Bacon Wrapped Fig, with goat cheese and mozzarella; or the Elote with roasted corn, feta, cilantro, smoked paprika, parmesan, crema, and lime. There are more, but we’ll let you be surprised.

Find Pacificoast at 123 W Front St. Ste 1B in Traverse City. (231) 486-6078; pacificoastsummer.com

Dreloco Taco

Traverse City

Dreloco Taco was founded by partners Andre Bushell and Loren Akerman in the spot previously occupied by their Dickey’s Barbeque Pit, a Texas-based franchise, which they opened in 2017 in the same Campus Plaza location. After six years of Dickey’s, the pair decided to pivot to their own brand of fresh, authentic Mexican food.

The duo first earned their bona fides in Fortune 15 companies before combining talents and going out on their own. They also own/operate Foundry Craft Grillery, in East Jordan since 2019 and in Elk Rapids since 2023.

The Dreloco interior is no-nonsense industrial rustic, with deep-toned woods, exposed ceilings, brickwork, decorative tile, and rows of plank-style tables with chairs or bench seating. Garage doors bring the outside in, weather permitting, and there is room for about 75 patrons seated inside and out. There’s also plenty of room for those ordering take-out.

On the Menu
Those who want things their way can build their meal by choosing the burrito, nacho, quesadilla, taco, or bowl as a base. You’ll also find expertly crafted tacos, such as the Texan with beef barbacoa, chili lime mayo, roasted corn salsa, and chipotle BBQ, topped with cheese, pickled onion, and cilantro; the Loco Carnitas with pulled pork, topped with slaw and boom boom sauce; and for the traditionalist, the beef OG with cheese and crisp lettuce. And don’t miss their take on the Hot Cheeto Burrito.

Loco Fries are another huge favorite, and for good reason. Imagine a bowl of fresh-cut fries, topped with queso, pulled pork, roasted corn salsa, and boom boom sauce. (Enjoy a deep discount on these wildly tasty fries every Locals Tuesday.) Another big seller is La Boomdilla, a combo of grilled chicken, corn salsa, cheese, and boom boom sauce, grilled crisp on the outside.

Just be sure to save some room for dessert and try the Cinnamon Sugar Churro, the crispy-on-the-outside and fluffy-on-the-inside fried pastry.

Find Dreloco Taco at 1201 E. Front St. Suite A, Campus Plaza, in Traverse City. (231) 715-1188; @drelocotaco

Casa Nueva

Mancelona

Casa Nueva has been “unbelievably busy” since they opened in March 2024.

The building used to house Mustangs Pit Stop, which closed in 2021. The building was sold in 2023, and restaurateur Dusty Rodriguez says the Casa Nueva team mostly had a turnkey property on their hands, with a few maintenance projects, some work on the bar to be done, and cosmetic improvements to make the space feel “inviting” and “elevated.”

That instant influx of patrons boils down to the authentic menu Rodriguez touts.

“We are from a town in Michoacán in Mexico. In Michoacan, specifically, their specialty are carnitas,” Rodriguez says of the No. 1 dish at the restaurant. “So, you know, we have a lot of experience. We know what they’re supposed to be.”

On the Menu
Expect seasoned pork tips—tried-and-true family recipe included—alongside refried beans, pico de gallo, tortillas, and rice.

Even the rice comes by way of Mexico. Casa Nueva utilizes a Mexican food purveyor out of Chicago to help source specific ingredients like chili peppers and rice. “Our rice that comes from [that supplier] is completely different from what you would get at Meijer,” Rodriguez jokes.

Locally, stops at the Cherry Street Market in Kalkaska help supply “fantastic vegetables.” Rodriguez also says she’s working with a local farmer to source the restaurant’s tomatoes. All sauces, sides, and ingredients are prepared fresh daily.

“Literally, the only thing that comes in a bottle is salt and pepper,” Rodriguez says.

Other popular dishes include the Arroz con Pollo—a chicken and rice dish with a side of house-made cheese dip—and the Chori Pollo, which features grilled chicken and chorizo. And, of course, don’t miss the classic quesadillas, tacos, and burritos.

Rodriguez also points to the multiple styles of fajitas, from regular chicken to Fajita Rancheras (chicken, steak, shrimp, and carnitas) as must-tries on the menu. And the Chimichanga (done two ways) is a bit of an under-the-radar option that guests rave about.

Dessert is kept in house with four mainstay options: carrot cake, cheesecake, flan, and chocoflan, aka a decadent, chocolatey version of the traditional baked custard dish.

Find Casa Nueva at 7983 US 131 NE in Mancelona.

Suzy’s Seafood Boils

Charlevoix

Of all the inventive business and lifestyle ideas that were birthed—whether by accident or necessity—from the pandemic, Suzy Brown’s might be one of the most serendipitous.

In her quest to host an 80th birthday party—during a time when restaurants were operating at around 25 percent occupancy—Suzy took matters into her own hands and created an authentic Low Country shrimp boil for family and friends. She reflects on the energy of that day, and “the interaction around the pot, [and] the smells.” She continues, “Everyone loved it. It was an easy, summer-fun thing to do.”

The rest is flavor history for this Charlevoix-based enterprise.

On the Menu
The menu, with some exceptions, is pretty much set: Wild caught and cleaned jumbo E-Z peel shrimp, authentic Andouille sausage, fresh red potatoes, sweet Vidalia onions, and corn on the cob, all flavored with Suzy’s proprietary seasoning blend and fresh cut lemons. Southern biscuits and all the butter you could possibly want round out this moveable feast.

Lobster tails and crab legs are popular add-ons, and she “might consider” serving clams and mussels, upon request. (It doesn’t hurt to ask if you have an off-menu favorite.) But that’s pretty much as far as it goes for special orders: Brown is licensed as an “at-home mobile chef.” Straying from the menu would require a catering license, and she’s happy with the status quo.

Ingredients are sourced from Superior Foods in Grand Rapids, a top tier supplier, with seafood creds going back to 1959. And, when available, hand-picked sweet corn is sourced from Boyne City’s Johnecheck Farms, a famous name among northern Michigan producers and corn on the cob aficionados.

If you want to book your own boil, remember that like any popular brick-and-mortar establishment, Suzy books up fast. “Clients should book at least three to four weeks in advance,” she says. She shares that peak season starts around the “last weekend in June into mid-August.” Things settle down after that, but still, plan ahead so there are no disappointments.

Find Suzy’s Seafood Boils online at bookaboil.com or call (248) 935-9866.

Chloe’s Chop House

Bellaire

Earlier this year, Chef Taylor Sutherland and his brother Hunter looked at the restaurant landscape and realized it was lacking something significant: A true steakhouse experience, where all the cuts of meat and sides are priced a la carte so patrons can customize the exact level of carnivorous decadence they desire.

In May, that realization manifested in the new Chloe’s Chop House in downtown Bellaire.

“My brother and I have always really loved food, and there’s really no good steakhouses around,” Taylor says, and prior to opening the restaurant, he did a lot of research to make sure they were going to deliver on that intention. “We went down to Prime & Proper in Detroit, the Chop House in Grand Rapids, Ruth’s Chris … we enjoy that service experience, and we decided to try to bring that Detroit or Chicago style restaurant up [here].”

On the Menu
Even though some steakhouse menus can feel like they’ve been set in amber in a lot of places, Chloe’s infuses some fun and creativity into their offerings. The menu goes beyond just the standard NY strip, T-bone, and loaded baked potatoes to include a Tomahawk ribeye and even the rare Japanese A5 Wagyu beef.

“I’m a big proponent of buying the best product from the best places, and I’ve been in the business long enough to know who has the best of what, and we use ’em,” Taylor says. The famously rich, heavily-marbled wagyu beef is served as a generous six-ounce portion, delivered and sliced tableside by the chef (often Hunter) so diners can see the delicately buttery beef tremble as it’s portioned.

If those monster cuts aren’t your preference, Chloe’s also has some more traditionally composed entrees like braised pork shank, seared halibut, or even mac ’n’ cheese topped with lobster tail or smoked brisket.

One other thing that Chloe’s sells a lot more than your traditional steakhouse? Breakfast items. They’re open for brunch six days a week, putting lobster Benedicts, French toast, and biscuits and gravy out next to lamb burgers, BLTs, and Oysters Rockefeller.

Find Chloe’s Chop House at 213 N Bridge St. in Bellaire. (231) 350-8986; chloeschophouse.com 

The Happy Troll

Charlevoix

Summer 2024 marked Dennis and Paige O’Leary’s second anniversary as proprietors of The Happy Troll, Charlevoix’s busy café/pub/bakery/dinner spot, just steps from the town’s famous bascule bridge, at the confluence of Pine River channel and Round Lake harbor.

Previously known as Scovie’s, the place had a solid 20-year run before the owner chose retirement and passed the torch to the O’Learys, longtime Charlevoix residents.

“We [kept] the vast majority of [Scovie’s] menu,” Dennis explains. “It was a proven winner, and the patrons were keen to let us know they liked the broad offerings.”

Though the menu is largely the same, the space itself certainly got a glow up. Think nautical vibes with cheerful blues and lake-inspired fixtures, plus new furniture and flooring. Displays of burgee flags (yachting pennants) honor the previous owner’s support of the Venetian Festival and the Red Fox Regatta, and The Happy Troll is proud to carry on the tradition.

On the Menu
Look for soups and salads, wraps and sandwiches, burgers and paninis, plus a big selection of sweet treats—cookies, cakes, pies, and bars—from the bakery. Meats (including house-brined corned beef and house-made roast beef), cheeses, and vegetables are hand-cut daily, and sourced locally whenever possible.

Favorites include the Bada Bing, loaded with salami, ham, banana peppers, provolone, romaine lettuce, tomato, and house-made Italian dressing. The Lincoln Tunnel is a pile of turkey pastrami, corned beef, Swiss, coleslaw, and Thousand Island dressing. Or try the fresh daily Northern Michigan Chicken Salad, presented two ways, on greens or on your choice of bakery bread. The Three Alarm burger is a 1/2-pound fire-grilled angus patty on a pretzel bun with pepper jack, jalapeños, and house sriracha mayo sauce.

An impressive kids’ menu has all of the usual suspects, plus the Build Your Own Kids Sandwich. (Adults have the same option.)

Outside of the lunch hours, downtown dining happens on Friday and Saturday evenings with traditional favorites. Patrons favor the Pecan Encrusted Walleye, sautéed, oven-finished, and topped with Amaretto beurre blanc; as well as the Baked Meat Lasagna with ricotta and five-cheese blend. The homemade Chicken Pot Pie dinner special takes you right back to your nana’s kitchen.

Find The Happy Troll at 111 Bridge Street in Charlevoix. (231) 237-7827; thehappytroll.com

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