November 22, 2024

Retro Relaxation

The Foothills of Glen Lake harken back to simpler days
By Geri Dietze | Aug. 20, 2022

In the 1950s, when Americans were urged to “See the USA in your Chevrolet,” the typical roadside motel was a series of connected rooms, sometimes with a café and a swimming pool on-site. Over time, the interstate highway system diverted travelers away, and chains like Holiday Inn and Howard Johnson turned the ubiquitous roadside lodging into an anachronism.

But the Foothills of Glen Lake, circa 1957, is thriving. (Pictured above in the "olden" days.)

Quirky…but with Roots
Most everything about the Foothills is a bit quirky—in fun, Schitt’s Creek way—from the origin story to the unlikely stewardship of the current owners, a trio connected through family, friendship, and profession.

The Foothills’ first owner was Roland Foote, who built a do-it-yourself cabin kit from the Montgomery Ward catalog on the shores of Glen Lake. The rental income from that cabin made him see the potential in something even larger. He purchased more property, ordered more cabin kits, and, in 1957, strung them together to form an 8-unit roadside motel.

There were other owners over the years, one of whom installed an in-ground pool, a powerful attraction in the mom-and-pop roadside motel business. Eventually, the pool became a victim of expensive liability insurance and was filled in. Speaking of victims, local scuttlebutt had it that the pool site was the final resting place of a downstate gangster. It’s a good story, and some like to think that he haunts the café. (Crime junkies take note: The dates don’t jibe with Jimmy Hoffa’s demise.)

In 2009, Shari Bernstein and Paul Staber of Toledo and Shirley Cheney of Indianapolis were in the area visiting Paul’s brother. Before leaving town, they ate at the Foothills Café. Later, Paul’s brother called them en route and said, “Hey, that restaurant where you just had breakfast is for sale.”

Fast-forward a bit, and the “three unlikely souls,” as Bernstein says, became owners. Cheney had longed to open a bed and breakfast. Bernstein was a counselor and Staber was in charge of a lockdown drug and alcohol treatment center. “We met in prison,” Bernstein deadpans.

Retro…but without the Irony
Today, it doesn’t get much more “vintage summer” than the Foothills. Still, the place is not a throwback to another time, nor is it a nostalgia trip. Rather, it is what it is: a nod to the ways things used to be, with recognition that things can be simple and still be just fine.

It’s a little off-beat, to be sure. (Body parts and hopes and dreams are included on the do-not-flush list posted in every bathroom.) But people who understand the vibe come back regularly for the comfortable beds, robust water pressure, fluffy towels, and a satisfying breakfast, all tucked under the trees on a country highway. Those who require more modern, shinier creature comforts go elsewhere.

“Most people say, ‘It’s clean, comfortable, and cute. Don’t mess with it,’” says Bernstein. And, the location is a big draw. “We have lots of repeat customers who like to be away from the hubbub of Glen Arbor but still appreciate the convenience of being close by.”

The motel is just a short drive to downtown Glen Arbor, Glen Lake beaches, and Sleeping Bear Dunes National Park. Guests can also head out on bikes or on foot, but be prepared for hills. (Someone from the Foothills would be sure to pick you up, if you need a lift, and bring you back. Now there’s service!)

All-day Breakfast…but with a Side of Altruism
Due to current staffing issues, the Foothills Café is serving breakfast only, from 8am to 2pm, Thursday through Monday. Still, it’s hopping with guests and regulars, local and seasonal. In the high season, the little place puts out 90 to 150 meals daily.

The café's easy style fits well with the motel’s retro vibe. The original Formica dinette tables are still in use, but the matching pink dinette chairs—it was the Fabulous Fifties, after all—were falling apart and, sadly, could not be saved.

Expect Higher Grounds fair trade coffee (bottomless cup!), farm fresh eggs, breakfast meats, and griddle items including special (secret) recipe pancakes. Try the Bomblette, a three egg omelet with sausage, onion, cheddar, and if desired, Paul’s homegrown jalapeños. (The 12-egg Bomblette is free if you eat the whole thing.)

Another favorite is Eggs Benedict, and the café has bested some heady competition: Londoners who summer on Glen Lake have had the dish in fine European restaurants, but prefer the Foothills’ version, hands-down. “Europeans seem to like [The Foothills],” Bernstein says. To wit: An Italian family staying in the motel needed to cook some pasta for their little one, so Bernstein took the mother into the café kitchen and put on the pasta water.

A helping hand comes in many forms, and one of the first things the owners did back in 2009 was institute a pay-it-forward arrangement for the café. Customers can buy another’s meal or purchase gift certificates, many of which find their way to area food banks and churches.

Plus, Bernstein continues to work part-time in counseling, and she is particularly sensitive to the dangers of overdose in Leelanau County. The Foothills has partnered with Harm Reduction Michigan, and, through a grant, offers free nasal doses of naloxone, which is used to stop an overdose.

Outside the café, the Harm Reduction Box resembles a white metal newspaper box, and its contents are free. “If it can save [a] life and reach more people, it’s for anyone who shows up and wants it,” Bernstein says. Pay it forward, indeed.

Old(er)…but New Again
Mid-century motels are experiencing a retro-chic renaissance, so the Foothills is right on trend without even trying. Still, the trio does look to the future. A sauna is planned, and at some point they hope to finesse the ’50’s look with modernity into a “boutique experience that works for every patron.”

In summer, Sunday concerts happen on the back deck. Bring some wine, lawn chairs, and be entertained: Larz Cabot, John Kumjian, Andre Villoch, and Blind Dog Hank, among others, have been on the stage. Suggested donations help pay for the cost. According to Bernstein, “It lets us keep the music and the energy flowing. It’s always a nice time.”

In the meantime, the owners savor the journey. “We love being up north,” Bernstein says. “This place is magical.”

Visit foothillsofglenlake.com. Motel (231) 334-3495, Café (231) 334-7499, 7097 S. Dunns Farm Rd., Maple City 

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