Dining with the Kosch Brothers

The trio’s lasting impact on the NoMi dining scene

By Ellen Miller | Feb. 15, 2025

Everyone has a story for how they got started in their careers. For Gary, Gordie, and Doug Kosch, the story is simple: early experiences working in hospitality led to opportunities and knowledge that they could invest back in their communities.

Getting Their Start

A career in the restaurant industry came calling for Gary following a brief stint at a desk job after graduating with a degree in accounting. “I didn’t realize I sat at a desk all the time,” he reflects, laughing. “That did not work with my personality.”

When his brother Gordie graduated a year later, the two took the leap into the dining world together, opening their first restaurant in 1981. “We were business partners for 39 years, and we had a great journey together,” Gary says. (Gourdie passed away from ALS in August of 2022.)

The brothers started with one restaurant in the Detroit area before pivoting into contract cafeterias in office buildings, which they would manage for three to five years. At their height, ​​the brothers were managing about 45 different operating units throughout southeast Michigan and Toledo.

In 1994, Gary decided to make the move to northern Michigan, where his wife was from. Up North, the journey continued with a sports bar Gordie Howe’s Tavern & Eatery, and ultimately other local establishments across the region including restaurants in Kalkaska and Gaylord.

Doug Kosch didn’t expect to spend his career in restaurants either. “I grew up working in restaurants and was in business with my brother down state for a little bit,” he says. “When my wife and I moved up to northern Michigan, I vowed to never get in again, but”—he jokes—“I realized I didn’t have any other talents.”

Doug ended up as the vice president of food and beverage at Shanty Creek Resort before purchasing The Boathouse restaurant on Old Mission Peninsula in 2004.

More Family Ties

Over the years, Doug says The Boathouse has weathered the industry’s many changes well and seen its strong summer business stretch throughout the year as Traverse City became more of a year-round destination and place to live.

“Back in the day in the middle of winter, there were times you’d maybe have zero or two customers. We were just talking about this, and we haven’t had a goose egg in years,” he says.

And summer has only gotten busier. “Summer has more tourism, more people on vacation, more celebrations, and more people wanting to go out for a nice meal on the water and enjoy as much of the day as they can on vacation. There’s so many people I see once a year and I have been seeing them for years. They tell me they rent the same place, they go to a winery, see the lighthouse, go take a family pic, and then come to The Boathouse,” Doug says.

The Boathouse has become a family business too; Doug’s daughter now works with him at the restaurant.

Gary’s restaurants have also brought in the next generation; his daughter Stacey and her husband Jerry McCleave took over Alpine Tavern & Eatery and C.R.A.V.E. in Gaylord at the start of this year. Gary, who has slowly been selling off his restaurants for the past few years, is looking forward to having fewer restaurant-related responsibilities.

“The restaurant biz I’ve loved, it’s a great business, but after being in it for 40-odd years, it wears on you,” he says. “My daughter has three sons, and I go over there and play grandpa more than I do anything these days.”

Times They are A-Changin’…

In the three-plus decades since the Koschs opened their first restaurant, the business has needed to evolve along with its customers. The switch from cash to credit and the proliferation of chain restaurants are two big changes Gary notes. Prices have also changed. Gary points to the prices on one of his early restaurant menus; finding a meal that cheap these days would be near impossible.

But both brothers say that the biggest change is labor.

“Today’s employment market is vastly different. Years ago, old-school Gary would put an ad in the newspaper for help wanted and have numerous applicants to choose from. In today’s world, it’s harder and harder; an ad could run forever and not get an applicant,” says Gary.

“Demographics are changing, housing is an issue… it’s hard work, and it’s getting harder to find kids or younger people who want to make that a career,” Doug agrees.

He explains that the rise of glamorous portrayals of chefs on the Food Network don’t always align with the reality of the hard work that goes into being in the kitchen. He says he’s lucky to have a solid front and back of house staff, but “like everyone else, we’re a little short in the summertime.”

…But Some Things Never Change

“You’re only as good as your last customer experience,” says Gary, pointing to a philosophy that followed him throughout his career. “That is definitely a constant.”

“At a restaurant, unlike other businesses like a doctor or an attorney, people don’t come to us with a problem—they come to have a happy experience,” Gary adds. “That starts in the parking lot, when you walk in and see the building, then you have service and food and follow up. It’s an easy thing to say and sometimes a hard thing to do. I always felt very good when we were able to accomplish that.”

For Doug, “The customer has stayed the same—someone who just enjoys coming to us for a special occasion or just for dinner. I have been seeing the same people for 15-20 years who have seen us grow. They are happy to see us grow and are really good people.”

Feeling Hungry?

The Boathouse
The Boathouse is nestled on the shores of Bowers Harbor Marina, with waterfront views from just about every seat in the place. Tourists return to this “upscale casual” restaurant year after year on their summer vacations, but winter shakes things up as it becomes more of a locals’ scene, with Peninsula residents gathering for a glass of wine or a burger near the fireplace indoors. Pro tip: Don’t miss the oysters! Last year Boathouse went through 60,000 of them. Doug says the Wagyu beef and summertime’s seasonal fresh halibut are other winners.

This month, The Boathouse will participate in Traverse City Restaurant Week Feb. 22-March 2. Their menu is $45 for three courses.

C.R.A.V.E.
Located on Main Street in Gaylord, C.R.A.V.E. is home to brick oven pizza and pasta. One unique option to sample is the Salty Hog, a pie with bacon onion jam, house cheese blend, pulled pork, and a balsamic drizzle. (Note: They also offer cauliflower crusts for gluten-free diners!) C.R.A.V.E. runs a happy hour Monday through Friday from 3-6pm, offering 25 percent off all beer, wine, liquor, and appetizers.

Alpine Tavern & Eatery
Just one block south of Main Street in downtown Gaylord, Alpine Tavern & Eatery is a family-friendly sports bar offering burgers, fried fish, and more. They regularly host live music on Fridays and Saturdays, and are the perfect spot to catch all of the big games. Gary says you shouldn’t miss the award-winning chili.