A River Towns Special: Welcome to Manistee, Cheboygan, and Roscommon

Escape the crowds, beat the heat, and get outside in these NoMi river towns

By Northern Express Staff & Contributors | July 1, 2023

By Alexandra Dailey, Sarahbeth Ramsey, and Rachel Pasche

While crystal blue lakes and bays draw people to northern Michigan, some of the wildest, purest waters you’ll find flow in our rivers. And the towns you’ll find alongside these waterways hold just as much magic, offering a slower pace and a connection to nature you can’t find anywhere else. Between the restaurants and shops and excursions, you can breathe deep and go with the flow. Find out what’s just around the riverbend in Manistee, Cheboygan, and Roscommon.

MANISTEE

(Pictured: A drone image of the Manistee River Walk by @dronejams_mcallister)

With its quaint shops and storefronts and historic architecture, this northwest Michigan town is a great getaway any time of the year. Manistee, which sits along the river of the same name, encourages visitors and locals to get out and enjoy the water as much as possible. Float, boat, paddle, or fish—this river town is your oyster.

Must-sees & Must-dos
An independent bookstore in the heart of downtown Manistee, the Happy Owl Bookshop offers a curated collection of books, ranging from the classics to today’s critically acclaimed, as well as magazines, newspapers, educational toys, and cards. For those visiting Manistee, the Happy Owl Bookshop also has great Michigan-themed items and interesting souvenirs to take back home as a vacation memento.

If you’d prefer your souvenirs to come with a side of history, head to MaryAnn’s Antiques. This downtown business—nearing its tenth anniversary—showcases a wide variety of items from different eras, including records, crystal, jewelry, art, furniture, toys, kitchenware, sports memorabilia, and more.

In search of an entertainment destination? Little River Casino Resort offers slot machines and table games, a lodge-style hotel, an RV park, indoor and outdoor pools, restaurants, and a spa. The resort also books nationally headlining musical and comedy acts in its 1,600-seat on-site performance venue throughout the year.

Nosh & Nibble
Positioned on the Manistee River, North Channel Brewing is a great spot to enjoy the scenery while grabbing a local brew with American fare for lunch or dinner. Try one of the brewery’s craft beers and observe the river’s drawbridge and freighter traffic from their newly added patio space.

If you want to appreciate the views and dine on farm-to-table creations, give Blue Fish Kitchen & Bar a try. At their location on River Street, this artisanal eatery offers an upscale-casual menu and is open for brunch and dinner.

Manistee’s oldest pizza place—Big Al’s Pizza—celebrated its 50th anniversary this year. It’s a great stop for families, where the pizza is always hot (and gluten-free and vegan options are available). Homemade sandwiches and wraps are also on the menu.

Lay Your Head
For a unique place to rest, try a stay aboard the historic S.S. City of Milwaukee car ferry. This “boatel” is open May through September and offers cozy accommodations on its Passenger Deck, 50-minute walking tours, and an experience of living in the 1930s. A continental breakfast is included, as are additional amenities like Wi-Fi, fans, and perfect places to watch sunrises and sunsets.

The last-standing industrial period mansion in Manistee, the historical Dempsey Manor, built by lumber baron James Dempsey in 1894, serves as a luxurious bed and breakfast. It showcases gorgeous Victorian architecture, which was restored by Hollywood set designer and decorator James Colburn. (And if you’re curious about the mansion but aren’t staying the night, Dempsey Manor offers public tours.)

Situated in the heart of downtown Manistee, the Ramsdell Inn is another historical structure that features Victorian architecture, stained glass, and gorgeous woodwork. This 10-room boutique hotel was renovated in 2003 and sits above the popular restaurant TJ’s Pub. The corner suites feature stunning peeks of downtown and the Manistee River, so you’re never too far away from water views.

Get on the Water
When visiting a river town, you want to enjoy and experience the river itself, and thanks to the Manistee County Historical Society, there is a 1.75-mile designated riverwalk that takes you from the banks of the Manistee all the way through downtown. There are even 25 plaques along the route that provide engaging information about the area.

For the engineering inclined, there are several fascinating structures to check out on a self-guided tour of Manistee’s bridges and dams. The town has three vehicular bridges, three railroad bridges, a large pedestrian bridge, two hydroelectric dams, and a salmon harvest weir.

Last but not least, don’t forget the tackle box when visiting this four-season fishing community. Some restaurants may even be willing to cook up your catch!

CHEBOYGAN

Whether you’re an avid angler, water-sports enthusiast seeking new terrains to explore, or just looking for a relaxing getaway, you’ll find what you’re looking for in Cheboygan. This river town is not only situated on the stately Straits of Mackinac, but also along the Cheboygan River, the northern starting point for Michigan’s Inland Waterway.

Must-sees & Must-dos
It’s not so bad to be inside on a summer day if you can catch a film at the Kingston Theatre, which offers the latest blockbusters, or the Cheboygan Opera House, where musicians of all genres take the stage inside the building that has been around for almost 150 years.

Did you bring your clubs along on this trip? Cheboygan has two nearby golf courses—the public Cheboygan Golf and Country Club (18 holes) and the semi-private Mullett Lake Country Club (9 holes).

This river town is also home to several lighthouses that are worth checking out, notably the Cheboygan Crib Lighthouse and the Cheboygan Front Range Light, the latter of which is now a tourable museum. Those with a penchant for history can set their sights on finding the ruins of the original Cheboygan Lighthouse at Cheboygan State Park.

Nosh & Nibble
After a full day spent enjoying the unbeatable Michigan summer weather, look no further than Cheboygan Brewing Company to refuel and unwind. With a rotating selection of fresh beer on tap and a patio to enjoy it on, this brewery makes for the perfect post-river pitstop.

For casual morning or afternoon eats, Step Inn serves up classic breakfast and lunch fare, along with some truly remarkable burritos that locals swear by.

Come dinner time, the Nauti Inn Barstro is a must for those who want a superb wine list and creative offerings; some of their menu items for this upcoming season include a pistachio pesto pasta and a Chicago-style hot sub.

Lay Your Head
Cheboygan offers several ways to stay for any type of traveler. Cozy up at Secrets on Main Bed & Breakfast, a historic building built in 1892 and recently restored to its former Victorian glory by the new owners Laurie and Terry Musclow. With an art gallery featuring pieces by Terry, a lovely tea room for an afternoon gathering, and classic Midwestern hospitality, Secrets on Main is the perfect combination of escaping to a new place and time while feeling right at home.

Nearby, you’ll also find the Continental Inn, situated right near the Lake Michigan coastline, as well as the Best Western or Fleetwood Inn, both of which are located along the Cheboygan River just south of downtown.

Get on the Water
Michigan’s Inland Waterway stretches for nearly 40 miles, connecting Cheboygan with Mullet Lake, Burt Lake, Crooked Lake, Pickerel Lake, and Petoskey, with multiple other stops along the way. Visitors can rent kayaks or glass-bottom boats from Nautical North Family Adventures and paddle up the Cheboygan River to Mullett Lake, keeping eyes peeled for wildlife along the way.

Fishermen will find salmon, bass, walleye, brook trout, rainbow trout, and sunfish on the Cheboygan River, whether they’re fly-fishing, baitcasting, or using spinners. Cheboygan State Park (just northeast of downtown) is home to Elliot Creek and boasts access to Duncan Bay, providing opportunities to catch trout, small and largemouth bass, and panfish.

There are also a few highly praised local fishing charter companies to choose from: Rockin’ and Reelin’ Sportfishing, Diabolical Sport Fishing, or MFM Sport Fishing and Guide Service.

ROSCOMMON

Roscommon is a small village known to many thanks to nearby Higgins Lake and the famed Au Sable River. While fishing is a main attraction—and worthy of an article unto itself—the town has plenty of charms for outdoorsy visitors. There’s a farmer’s market each Saturday at the River Center, cool shops to explore, and plenty of opportunities to get your toes (or your waders) in the water.

Must-sees & Must-dos
For those who enjoy blending land-based adventures with watery experiences, there are several hiking trails available in Roscommon’s parks and natural areas. We love the Au Sable River Trail, a flat trail that offers beautiful views of the river. (For a similar vibe via car, the Scenic Byway offers the opportunity to drive along the river and take in its wild beauty.)

Every now and then, we may have a rainy day, so in that case, we recommend looking into the Higgins Lake Nursery and Civilian Conservation Corps Museum. Learn about the history of one of the world’s largest pine nurseries that operated from 1903 to 1965 and broke ground with efforts in conservation and reforestation.

Want to keep the family busy for an afternoon? Opt for a few hours of bowling at Fred’s of Roscommon, which also has an expansive food menu and pool tables in addition to its eight bowling lanes.

Nosh & Nibble
Brunch is a must while traveling. The Bird and the Bear Bakery has a menu full of different choices for a group of any size, with pastries, omelets, and lunch options for those who show up a bit later in the day. The Beechwood Cafe also offers classic homestyle offering for breakfast and lunch.

For dinner, Matt’s Lake Street Grill and Pizzeria has a little bit of everything: shrimp, chicken, sirloin, and—you guessed it—pizza and breadsticks. (They also serve breakfast and lunch if you want to double dip!)

Nibbles Ice Cream shop is a classic aesthetic with modern and nostalgic flavors. Customers like this shop for their variety of 20+ flavors and affordable prices—plus some vegan and dairy-free options.

Lay Your Head
Camping is a big draw for Roscommon, home to two state parks: North Higgins Lake State Park and South Higgins Lake State Park. From spring to fall, campers can enjoy a cup of coffee while immersing themselves in nature with a lake view. (For our dog-loving friends, there are designated dog areas in each park so that your furry family member can join.)

Grayling is the closest bigger town, where you can book a room at the Au Sable Riverview Resort, which is dog friendly and offers amenities like Wi-Fi and free parking. The Lake AuSable Lodge, meanwhile, sits just 35 yards from the first tee of the Forest Dunes golf course.

For a historical feel, Hanson House Bed & Breakfast of Grayling—another former lumber baron home out of the 1890s—offers a charming experience that includes breakfast to start your day feeling energized and ready for all your Roscommon activities.

Get on the Water
Renting a kayak, paddle boat, or inner tube is a great way to enjoy the calm parts of the river while leisurely floating along with friends and family. There are several rental options in town, including Campbell Canoes and Kayak Livery and Paddle Brave.

You can also level up to white water paddling, the lesser-known sibling of white water rafting, on the Au Sable River. Ask an expert at a local rental facility for more information on safely preparing and instructing best practices before attempting.

For the true adrenaline chasers, there is the popular Au Sable River Canoe Marathon each July, where racers paddle all day and all night for a finished journey of 120 miles.