Drawbridge Bistro: A New Stafford’s Landmark
When the Charlevoix drawbridge is up, traffic sits stopped in both directions. For drivers just trying to get through town, it’s a pain to be endured. For diners at the Drawbridge Bistro, though, it’s just another part of the attraction.
"We added the high tops so you can see outside," says chef Rob Graves-Wesolosky. The bistro tables and chairs allow most everyone to enjoy the outdoor scenery from the windows that line the dining room. From the stunning blue waters to the people passing by to the restaurant’s namesake, there’s always something beautiful to compliment the meal.
But, the bridge is only part of the draw.
Graves-Wesolosky hopes the food is what really brings people in and brings them back.
"I love food; I love being able to be creative," he says.
THE SCENE
The Drawbridge Bistro is located directly across the street from the Weathervane restaurant; both restaurants are owned by Stafford’s Hospitality, but Graves-Wesolosky emphasizes the importance of each having its own identity.
"It’s a Stafford’s property, [but] with a completely different atmosphere and different food," he says. The goal is to draw patrons familiar with the Stafford’s reputation for food and service, as well as others looking for something a bit different.
Thus, it’s less traditional than the previous Stafford’s patron might expect. "White tablecloths, things like perch, walleye, planked whitefish–that’s the older, typical northern Michigan style," he says.
The interior of the Drawbridge Bistro has a contemporary, urban vibe, while the cuisine focuses on local products prepared in different and innovative ways and beer and wine from the region. "Incredible food at a very good price," says Graves-Wesolosky.
THE MENU
Breakfasts include familiar items such as omelets, French toast, waffles and pancakes. For more creative early eaters, there’s the Mediterranean Skillet with eggs, Kalamata olives, artichokes, tomatoes and feta cheese and the Latino Cake Skillet with a black bean cake, red and green peppers, scallions and almond cream sauce.
Come lunchtime, salads such as chop, beet and Caesar start things off, followed by the more unique On the Water salad with heirloom tomatoes, sweet pickled onion and watercress. Burgers, wraps and sandwiches, along with hanger steak and chicken linguine, round things out.
Dinner features include appetizers such as fried oysters, pork belly and crabby lobster rangoon. Entrées range from filet and bone-in pork chops to scallops, halibut and even black and blue pasta with seared tenderloin tips and blue cheese.
THE BEST
When asked about the best items, Graves-Wesolosky immediately turns to breakfast. "The Morning Pinch is an Eggs Benedict with lobster meat and a citrus Hollandaise," he says. Other favorites include the North and South (Crooked Tree Breadworks granola with yogurt from Thomas Organic Creamery) and Campfire S’mores, waffles with torched marshmallow, chocolate drizzle, graham cracker and maple syrup.
For dining later in the day, he favors the burgers from nearby Circle M Ranch in Wolverine (which also provides the restaurant’s bacon and other meats). He also points to the citrus shrimp tacos, served with a spicy mango salsa from American Spoon Foods.
At dinnertime, the top selections multiply. Start with the gnocchi, which are unlike anywhere else: crispy on the outside, fluffy inside.
The lavender chicken is a half bird served with polenta and a honey lavender au jus. Soaked in brine to keep it moist through cooking, Graves-Wesolosky says the au jus gives it a subtle hint of lavender.
While much of the menu and ingredients hail from nearby locales, the Alaskan Black Cod is one of the top sellers, served with polenta and roasted pepper coulis, and is truly unique in the region.
THE REST OF THE STORY
After gaining experience in restaurants downstate, Graves-Wesolosky served as sous chef at the Pier, the Stafford’s Hospitality restaurant in Harbor Springs.
When presented with the opportunity to run the Drawbridge Bistro after the company’s acquisition, he jumped at the chance.
"Gerald Gramzay was my mentor," says Graves-Wesolosky. Gramzay, who passed away last year, was the longtime corporate chef for Stafford’s Hospitality.
Attached to the Edgewater Inn, The Drawbridge also has a built-in customer base. Much of the breakfast clientele comes from the hotel.
THE SKINNY
Breakfasts start at $8.50. Sandwiches start at $8. Dinner appetizers start at $7.50, salads at $5. Entrées start at $14.
The Drawbridge Bistro opens at 8am Tuesday through Sunday, serving breakfast until 11am Tuesday through Saturday and until 2pm on Sunday. Lunch is 11:30am to 2pm with dinner running 4:30 to 9pm Tuesday through Saturday. The restaurant is closed Mondays.
The Drawbridge Bistro is located at 100 Michigan Av enue in Charlevoix. Call 231- 758-3801 or visit www.staffords.com or their Facebook page.
