Grille 44 continues to grow
By Ross Boissoneau
People grow up. Apparently, so do restaurants.
When Kevin Buckner bought Grille 44 in Bear Lake, it was a summer-only cafe called the Ice Shanty. Last year, its transformation was complete, as the eatery became a year-round restaurant serving Bear Lake and the surrounding area with a full menu, including alcohol.
"When we bought it, it was an ice cream and pizza parlor open May through Sept.," says Buckner.
While he continued in that vein for a few years, Buckner ultimately decided to expand the Grille’s offerings and its season.
THE SCENE
Grille 44 is named for its location at latitude 44 degrees, 25 minutes, 47 seconds. The rustic interior and log exterior are perfectly in keeping with a northern Michigan lodge feel.
It evokes the sports bar ethos with multiple TV screens and a menu that includes burgers, pizza and a dozen beers on tap. That’s one of the establishment’s draws, according to Buckner.
"One of our biggest claims to fame is the 12 draft beers we serve," he says.
Pabst, Bud Light and Amber Bock are always available; the remaining nine taps rotate through a variety of beers. Buckner says typically about half are Michigan brews. They also vary according to time of year.
"There are seasonal brews like Summer Shandy or Oktoberfest," he explains.
THE MENU
As befits a sports bar, there are plenty of pub favorites. Burgers, pizza and a variety of appetizers top the list.
Start with fried asparagus, mac & cheese bites, mini tacos or french fries–but not just any fries. The Works Bar Fries boast bacon, green onion and a four-cheese blend with sour cream on the side.
Sandwiches include likely suspects such as a BLT, club and fried chicken, along with garlic herb tilapia and pulled pork with your choice of three BBQ sauces.
Chef, taco, Italian and TC Cherry are among the salad choices. The featured entrees include sirloin and rib eye steaks, beerbattered cod, shrimp (breaded, coconut, or basted with garlic butter and a rum or ginger glaze), cod and chicken strips.
Don’t forget the pizza–with plenty of cheese. Buckner’s top choice is duly noted. Kev’s Pizza is pepperoni, ham, bacon, onion and mushrooms.
THE BEST
The poblano pepper poppers are tasty treats with a bit of heat, combining poblanos and jalapeños with cream cheese and mozzarella cheese. Tops among the appetizers, though, are the portobello fries, thick strips of portobello mushrooms that are breaded and fried.
Broasted chicken is one of the restaurant’s signature items. Broasting cooks a marinated chicken under pressure in a way that Buckner says helps it retain its moisture without becoming greasy.
Bluegill is an unexpected menu selection, but it’s popular.
"It’s mild, good quality and does well for us," says Buckner.
He also points to the burgers, served nine different ways.
"They are certified Angus beef hamburgers," he says.
Buckner says his personal favorite is a sandwich that’s making the transition from occasional special to permanent menu choice. The Prime Grill is a grilled cheese sandwich with thin-sliced prime rib.
"We do a French dip as a daily special. That led to this, to change things up," he says.
A specialty margarita has gained signature status at Grille 44.
"It’s got prickly pear cactus syrup from Arizona," says Buckner. "It’s unique. A little sweeter than the standard margarita."
THE REST OF THE STORY
Buckner previously co-owned a bar in Brethren, but says his real background is in convenience stores. He already owned Saddle Up Gas & Grocery next door and, when the Ice Shanty became available, he decided it made perfect sense to add the restaurant.
According to Buckner, Grille 44 has been embraced by the community, as well as those from other towns or traveling along US 31.
"It’s been very good. We get people from Interlochen, Mesick, Frankfort, Scottville," he says. "People are always looking for a change."
THE SKINNY
Appetizers start at $6.44, salads at $8.44.
Sandwiches start at $6.94, entrées at $9.44. Pizzas start at $8.94 and broasted chicken (four pieces) at $6.94.
Grille 44 opens at 11am Monday-Saturday and noon on Sundays. The restaurant closes at 10pm every day except Thursday and Friday, when it’s open until 11pm.
Grille 44 is located at 12951 US 31 in Bear Lake. Call (231) 864-4000. Online, visit the restaurant at www.grille44.com or on Facebook and Twitter.
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