Putting Michigan Wines on the Map

What will it take for our wine region to be mentioned in the same breath as Napa or Sonoma?

In its literal sense, “terroir” refers to the natural and environmental factors—like soil type, climate, and topography—that not only affect how a wine tastes and smells but also help define it as an undeniable expression of where it was made.

In other words, terroir denotes a sense of place.

“We’ve really developed our own [winemaking] style,” says Mari Vineyards’ Winemaker Sean O’Keefe. “We’re trying to solve problems and do unique things that are only here in northern Michigan.”

But how does that sense of place translate on a national, or even global, scale?

Just in time for harvest season, Northern Express sat down with four of our region’s award-winning wineries—Chateau Chantal, Black Star Farms, Aurora Cellars, and Mari Vineyards—for a little boots-on-the-ground perspective on Michigan’s place in the wine-growing world, the industry’s ongoing evolution, and the couldn’t-have-come-from-anywhere-else elements that make northwest Michigan so special.

Under the Radar

The biggest issue winemakers face is that many consumers still don’t know Michigan wine exists.

“Every time I’m in the tasting room, I hear someone who says, ‘Oh my gosh! These wines are really good!’” Black Star Farms’ Managing Owner Sherri Campbell Fenton says. “It’s always fun to see someone have their eyes opened to the fact that, yes, we’re producing world-class wines in this little part of the country.”

Though it’s true that northern Michigan is still a developing wine region—our oldest wine makers are just passing 50, in contrast to the oldest vintners in France and Italy, some of whose families can be traced back to around 1,000 CE—that growing potential put us on par with the coastal big leagues from the jump.

Black Star Farms’ Founding Head Winemaker Lee Lutes notes that northern Michigan is home to the only growing terroir of its kind from Spokane to Albany, and, much like its international competitors, has also produced scores of award-winning wines.

Much of this success, however, has flown under the public radar for decades. So, it makes sense that national consumers—including those in other Midwest states and even lower Michigan—are still unaware of the scope and standard of the wine industry just a few hours north.

Industry Evolution

So how do we equate Michigan with great wine in the minds of consumers? This, all four wineries unanimously concede, comes down to a question of focused support.

“That’s certainly a hurdle we’ve been trying to get over. If we could scream from the mountaintops the quality of what we’re doing here in Michigan, I think there would be a big change,” notes Chateau Chantal Vice President of Hospitality Operations and Distribution Brian Lillie.

Funding, of course, is a large part of this, which is a hindrance here in Michigan, as there isn’t a significant legislative budget dedicated to marketing statewide wine programs. Though there are some localized dollars in play, including support from the Michigan Craft Beverage Council and grant matches for commodity crop growers under Michigan Public Act 232, until Michigan establishes a source of sustainable funding—like the New York Wine & Grape Foundation, for instance, or the Washington State Wine Commission—local wine producers will inevitably remain at a disadvantage in terms of large-scale expansion.

There have been recent efforts to allocate resources for Michigan wine, in particular through the foundation of the Michigan Wine Collaborative in 2016. The MWC promotes the Michigan grape and wine industry on the national and world wine stage, directs industry research, and offers members various tools, documents, and workshops.

The effects of these initiatives, though, per Lutes, can take years to materialize.

“It’s all part of the industry’s evolution,” he says. “Just bringing in those industry dollars and supporting them through state and federal channels, I think, will come with time.”

Further, Lillie highlights that most Americans have yet to register Michigan as a worthwhile wine destination, instead defaulting to the West Coast and New York. To put the Third Coast on the figurative map, the first step is “getting liquid to lips”—on a local level, in particular.

“We haven’t gotten full acceptance from our own state yet,” Chateau Chantal President and CEO Marie-Chantal Dalese notes. “It’s part of the global scene, and it’s in our own backyard.”

Acceptance and Recognition

To encourage that acceptance—and by extension, a foothold in the national market—the group emphasizes the importance of featuring Michigan wines on area beverage lists, many of which are still dominated by (you guessed it!) Old World and West Coast selections.

Increased tasting room traffic, business partnerships, and distribution also support these efforts, as does exposure from urban foodie hubs like Detroit and Chicago.

“All wineries have to make that effort to [foster] that stronger presence,” O’Keefe adds.

From this lens, success for the Michigan wine industry would incorporate a whole host of factors. Increased sales is a key element, as is market sustainability—which, per Lutes and Lillie, ranges from lowering environmental impact to creating high-value jobs and encouraging new vineyard entrants—and enough retail demand to make Michigan wine available alongside larger distributors.

Recognition, though, is the ultimate goal.

“We really want to establish ourselves so that there’s knowledge of this boutique wine region in northwest lower Michigan,” says Fenton, “that people know they could take a few days and start to experience what makes this region so special.”

Something for Everyone

One of those elements, Lutes explains, is the ability to please a broad range of palettes.

Our region’s established demand for sweet white wines is still at the fore. Taylor Simpson, who co-owns Simpson Family Estates (the group behind Aurora Cellars, as well as Good Harbor Vineyards and Harbor Hill), notes that a whopping two-thirds of Michigan’s 50 top-selling wines are classified “sweet.”

Dry and aromatic whites are on the incline though, a style of wine that O’Keefe stresses Michigan is uniquely positioned to grow. In fact, TasteMichigan data—a Michigan wine-making organization launched via the Michigan Department of Agriculture & Rural Development and the United States Department of Agriculture—indicates that Michigan-focused wine drinkers are moving away from residual sugar in favor of Auxerrois, Chardonnay, and Pinot Grigio.

Sparkling wines are also on the upswing, says Simpson, as are cool-climate reds.

Michigan has historically had a poor reputation when it comes to producing red wine. Though it’s true that full-bodied and jammy reds (think “purple teeth” grapes, like Syrah or Zinfandel) often can’t weather the winter deep-freeze, there are plenty of other cool-hardy options that flourish in and even prefer those conditions. These include Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc, as well as grapes like Gamay Noir (grown primarily in Beaujolais), Blaufränkisch, and northern Italian Teroldego.

As the group points out, it’s because Michigan viticulture is so young and lacks traditional pushback that the opportunity to introduce consumers to unique varietals is not only possible, but encouraged.

Other notable market trends include dealcoholized wines, a recent addition to Chateau Chantal’s inventory, as well as fortified wines and spirits, which Black Star Farms highlights in their craft cocktail program.

“I think diversity in the tasting room is also part of the trend,” Lutes says. “Just giving people options is certainly what seems to bring them pleasure in being part of our operation.”

Future Growth

As for the future of the Michigan wine industry? As far as the winemakers are concerned, the earth is—literally—the limit.

Per President of Simpson Family Estates, Sam Simpson, wine production in northern Michigan is still on the tail end of its “pioneering” phase. “That’s a healthy place to be,” he explains, “because we’re still defining the market up here, with entrants bringing new things to the table.”

As a region that’s still ripening (pardon the pun), there are thousands of vacant Michigan acres that could yet be planted. Until we approach that capacity, which all four wineries say is still many years away, it would be unrealistic to expect Michigan’s output to compete on a global scale.

Instead, the uniting local focus surrounds increased economic growth, which, when achieved, would allow our region to comfortably expand its production. Moving forward, these efforts could include higher price tags for bottle sales, more local investment from outside parties, and ideally, more acclaim from industry professionals.

All of these components, Sam Simpson notes, when coupled with community support, form the building blocks of a wine region thoughtfully built by its members.

“I think the future for Michigan wines is extremely bright and promising,” adds Lutes. “[Though] that growth is creating some challenges, I think we’ll overcome those in time. We’re looking forward to more positive development and a sustainable future for all things northwest Michigan.”

Right Place, Right Time

Though it’s true that wine is grown domestically to some extent in all 50 states, our pleasant peninsula is uniquely positioned to grow grapes on par with some of the world’s heaviest hitters.
Michigan—in particular, the Leelanau and Old Mission peninsulas—are situated on the cusp of two major climates: the Continental zone in Canada, which is fairly dry with frigid winters, and the Maritime bubble around the Great Lakes.

For our little neck of the woods, this translates to healthy and well-drained sandy soils and microcosmic weather conditions, wherein tempered coastal air protects crops like grapes from blooming prematurely, while also staving off autumnal frosts.

Both Old Mission and Leelanau Peninsula AVAs (aka, American Viticultural Areas, or designated wine-growing regions) also intersect the 45th parallel, or the line that marks the half-way point between the Equator and the North Pole. This marker runs through some of the world’s most celebrated wine regions, including northern Italy (notably Piedmont, known for Nebbiolo, Barbera, and Muscat, among many others), France’s Bordeaux and Rhone Valley regions, northern Germany, and Willamette Valley in Oregon.

These spots, like northwest Michigan, are all categorically “cool climate” regions, known for producing wines that maintain their acidic snap and tend to play nicely with food. In the Old World, such varietals include the Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, and Pinot Noir, all of which have also been proven to thrive in northern Michigan.

Sparkling wine is another local forte, whose low sugar levels and lighter body require a cool climate to cultivate.

The takeaway here is that Michigan is naturally equipped to make some of the best wine in the world.

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