The Ridge

A VIEW WITH A RESTAURANT? NOT ANYMORE.

Sept. 16, 2016

 

The breathtaking view of West Grand Traverse Bay from the buffet venue Eagle’s Ridge used to be the property’s main attraction, said George Weir, executive chef of the site’s latest incarnation, The Ridge. But Weir and his staff are determined to turn that perception around. "It’s certainly true that the panorama from the restaurant is spectacular in every season, and people really enjoy that. But our whole food and beverage concept has been revamped and upgraded in the past few months – so although some might still come for the view, once they discover our new menu and bar offerings, we’re confident that they won’t be disappointed and that they will come back for more."

EAT, SIP AND BE HAPPY

sits on the high bluff just above the Leelanau Sands Casino and Lodge, just north of Suttons Bay on the Leelanau Peninsula. Owned and operated by the Grand Traverse Band LLC, it is billed on its website as a "restaurant and tap house." The spacious dining room, which spills out onto a sunny outdoor terrace in summer, is anchored by a long wraparound bar whose design features an overturned green canoe as its light canopy. True to the new tap house identity, customers can choose from 28 brews on tap – most of them Michigan craft beers but also some popular national brands like Sam Adams and Leinenkugel. A full bar and an extensive, reasonably priced wine list are also available. The latter emphasizes wines from the Leelanau Peninsula while sprinkling in a few select Californian, Spanish, Italian and French bottles to keep it interesting. All wines are available either by the glass or the bottle.

Weir has created a fairly meat-centric menu that pairs well with the tap house theme, but there are seafood and vegetarian options as well. "George is an awesome chef," said front-of-the-house supervisor Chaning Kruskie. "He puts his heart and soul into his cooking. And out here in the dining room, we just want to make our guests smile and have a good time!" Kruskie says the quality of the food customers receive for the price is amazing. "The baby back ribs are a good example – they’re incredibly thick and meaty, and so flavorful and tender. You’re paying just $16 for a phenomenal dish. They are hugely popular."

Another crowd favorite is the intriguingly titled B.E.T. – aka Belly, Egg and Toast. The "belly" is pork belly, which Weir cures for seven days, smokes for about five hours, and then finishes at 225 degrees for about two hours, "so it comes out nice and supple. It’s both crispy and tender," he explained. It is served on a toasted baguette, topped with a sunny side up egg, and drizzled with spicy apple syrup. "It’s our No. 1 seller," said Kruskie. Weir also makes his own corned beef for another hit item, his Reuben sandwich. "If George can cut it himself, cure it himself, or smoke it himself – whatever he can do from scratch – he does it, right in house," said Kruskie.

A CULINARY ODYSSEY

Originally from Washington state, Weir spent several years training and honing his culinary skills in the capitals of Europe, including Paris, Stockholm, Madrid and Milan, among others. Upon his return, he worked for a time in New York before making his way across the country, back to his home in the Northwest. He landed in northern Michigan in 1998 and has been here ever since. His wife, Julie, who is from the area, is The Ridge’s pastry chef and makes all of the desserts, including, said Kruskie, an amazing carrot cake.

Weir is passionate about his profession – his eyes light up, and his voice becomes animated when he talks about crafting food. "I love what I do," he said. "But cooking professionally requires a major commitment.

You have to be willing to sacrifice. You will miss birthdays, holidays, weekends, family gatherings. As a chef herself, my wife understands that. That makes it easier. At one point, I told one of the master chefs I studied under, "˜I think I’m getting out of this business.’ And he looked at me and said, "˜George, if you don’t have a knife in your hand, you’ll be miserable for the rest of your life.’ And he was absolutely right."

CREATING MORE BUZZ

Although a recent weekend was The Ridge’s busiest yet, and word is getting out about the latest changes at the restaurant, Weir and his team continue to brainstorm additional ideas on how to attract new business. Live music from local bands is, with no cover charge, is on the agenda. Coming soon: beer and wine dinners, and possibly a barbecue and blues night.

One might be surprised to learn that only about a third of the restaurant’s clientele is comprised of casino-goers or guests at the onsite lodge. "The rest are mostly locals, people who drive by and see our sign, or those who find out about us through the media," said Kruskie. "Something people may not know, however, is that we can and do cater to not just small but also large groups, because we have the room to accommodate them."

Presently, an all-you-can-eat Friday night fish fry features either cod or perch, with live piano accompaniment from 6–8pm. Menu specials typically run on Saturdays. "George may do a prime rib special, or – depending on what he can get – a seafood or fish special. Two recent winners with customers were a pan-seared striped bass with redskin potatoes, and a seafood pasta with seasonal vegetables," said Kruskie.

This coming fall and winter, Weir is planning some significant menu changes, incorporating heartier fare with ingredients typical to those seasons. "I’m going to do some delicious and affordable homestyle comfort food that I hope will appeal to the locals, because they are our bread and butter," he said.

"Ask any restaurant in the region – if you don’t have your local support in the off season, you won’t be open. So I’m gearing the menu during that time to the people who live here year-round."

Now imagine enjoying that cozy food while looking out at the bay below rimmed in glorious autumn colors or sparkling snowscapes "¦ because The Ridge is now a restaurant with a view.

The Ridge Tap House is located at 2511 North West Bay Shore Dr. in Peshawbestown. Serving lunch and dinner. Open Sun. through Thurs., 11am to 9pm; Fri. through Sat., 11am to 11pm. Happy hour Mon. through Fri., 4pm to 6pm ($1 off beer and wine). For more information, visit www.ridgetaphouse.com or call 231-866-4372. $-$$